Hanoi’s Culinary Delight: The Journey of Banh Te and Fish Sauce
In Hanoi, Vietnam, local flavors come to life in dishes like banh te, a popular steamed rice cake filled with mushrooms and minced pork. This dish perfectly represents the essence of northern Vietnamese cooking, prioritizing simple ingredients that are executed with care. Traditionally, it’s paired with a distinctive fish sauce dip, known as nuoc mam, which enhances its savory taste.
Chef Quang Dung, the owner of Chapter Dining in Hanoi, adds a creative twist to this beloved dish. His refined version incorporates luxurious elements, enriched with pork stock and garnished with raw scallops and pickled daikon. The dish not only maintains its traditional roots but elevates them with fresh herbs like coriander, fried shallots, and even a touch of a giant water bug, a unique ingredient in northern Vietnamese cuisine. He emphasizes the vital role of fish sauce, stating, “Fish sauce is one of the foundations for flavor.”
Fish sauce is an integral part of Vietnam’s rich culinary heritage, used in a variety of dishes—from a dipping sauce for spring rolls to marinades for grilled meats and salad dressings. The adaptability of this amber liquid resonates deeply in Vietnamese culture; each bottle is unique, reflecting the fishing methods and local traditions that influence its production. Unfortunately, issues like climate change and overfishing threaten the sustainable practices historically associated with fish sauce production.
In Hanoi, chefs are finding innovative ways to incorporate fish sauce into unexpected places. Dung himself has experimented with using it in cocktails, creating a distinct umami flavor, and even in ice cream. He believes that the sauce’s versatility opens up many culinary possibilities.
Dung’s journey into cooking began at a young age under the guidance of his mother, who taught him to prepare meals for himself. His passion for food flourished over the years, leading him back to Vietnam in 2013 after studying finance abroad. After a series of entrepreneurial endeavors, including opening a gastropub and learning from his mistakes, he finally established Chapter Dining, a restaurant that has gained recognition in the Michelin Guide for its dedication to local ingredients and traditional cooking methods.
Central to Dung’s culinary philosophy is a commitment to sustainability. His menu changes with the seasons, reflecting what local farmers can provide—emphasizing the importance of using fresh, regional produce. This flexibility allows the restaurant to adapt to nature’s unpredictable circumstances, ensuring quality while respecting the environment.
Dung encourages others to explore the magic of fish sauce in home cooking. A simple yet delicious recipe he suggests is a fish sauce omelet, combining eggs with fish sauce and spring onions for a delightful meal, especially when served with rice.
In conclusion, as Hanoi’s culinary landscape continues to evolve, the core values of tradition and sustainability remain vital to its identity. Chef Dung’s innovative spirit, combined with deeply rooted Vietnamese flavors, makes Chapter Dining a beacon of culinary excellence in the heart of Vietnam.
