Father and Son: A Tradition of Tsukudani Cooking in Tokyo
In the early hours of the day, a father and son begin their work at 5 a.m. Silent but resolute, they move through their tasks almost like a well-oiled machine, beads of sweat forming on their brows. This daily routine at their shop revolves around cooking tsukudani, a traditional Japanese dish made from various ingredients simmered in a sweet soy sauce syrup.
Tsukudani dates back over 200 years to the Edo period, a time when refrigeration did not exist. In their shop, they prepare clam tsukudani among other variations, cooking four pots each morning from 6 to 8 a.m. They must handle the delicate ingredients with care, as breaking them could ruin the dish.
Yoshihiro Kobayashi, part of this father-son duo, speaks with a blend of frustration and respect for his father’s old-school methods. Despite initially pursuing a career in fashion and retail, Yoshihiro chose to return home to continue the legacy of their family business.
His father, Nobuo Kobayashi, though strict and opinionated, now lets his son take the lead. When a visitor aims a camera at him, he jokes, “Don’t take me. Your camera might break.”
The Heart of Tsukudani
Their shop, Tsukushin, is located in the Tsukuda neighborhood near the Sumida River, the birthplace of tsukudani, which means “cooked in Tsukuda.” While many modern factories produce mass amounts of tsukudani today, the Kobayashis continue to stay true to their roots. They use traditional cooking methods involving earthen vessels and a meticulous simmering process.
Yoshihiro likens tsukudani to Western jams, highlighting its sweet and savory flavors. While many enjoy it with a bowl of hot rice, it can also be a great snack paired with sake or used in rice balls and packed lunches.
Preserving Tradition
Tsukudani represents how Japan balances modernization with its cherished traditions, often passed down through small family businesses. While it is commonly enjoyed with rice, Yoshihiro warns against unconventional pairings. For him, tsukudani should honor its traditional flavors.
As the Kobayashis work diligently, they also face the challenge of introducing tsukudani to those unfamiliar with it, including younger Japanese and foreigners. Simple ideas about the dish’s value can help bridge cultural gaps, ensuring this age-old food remains appreciated for generations to come.
A Modern Perspective
Today, even those outside the Kobayashi family recognize the significance of tsukudani. Many customers, like Noriko Kobayashi—unrelated to the tsukudani makers—have their own fond memories. She enjoys eating seaweed tsukudani with cheese and emphasizes its health benefits, showing that this classic dish has a place in modern diets.
As they continue to cook and share their family tradition, the Kobayashis highlight how important it is to keep these culinary practices alive, reaffirming the importance of family, heritage, and the simple joys of good food.
