Vatican City — When Pope Leo XIV emerged on the balcony of St. Peter’s Basilica for the first time after his election on May 8, many took note of his striking attire. Unlike Pope Francis, who often wore a simple white cassock, Leo was dressed in a red satin mozzetta, a burgundy stola with gold details, and a gold cross. This return to traditional papal garments has stirred excitement among those who appreciate the rich history of liturgical fashion.
In the weeks following his election, observers noted improvements in Leo’s wardrobe, including elegant cufflinks and lace, reminiscent of past popes. These changes are a hopeful sign for both traditionalists and those in the tailoring industry, suggesting a revival of past customs that could influence the broader church.
Experts speculate that Leo’s embrace of tradition might not only concern fashion but could also hint at a shift in policy. Many conservative Catholics, who felt disheartened by Francis’ more casual approach, are keen to see if Leo will reinstate previous practices, particularly regarding the traditional Latin Mass, which Francis had restricted out of concern for parish unity.
Rev. John Wauck from the Pontifical Holy Cross University stated that Leo’s wardrobe choices reflect a significant “return to form” that pays homage to tradition. This resonates strongly with conservative Catholics who value the dignity and respect central to the papal office.
Leo has already demonstrated his respect for the Latin language, integrating it into his public prayers. This encourages traditionalist Catholics to hope for a resurgence of the Latin Mass. However, experts like Massimo Faggioli remain cautious, noting that it is too soon to determine whether Leo will truly reverse Francis’ previous reforms.
At his inaugural Mass on May 18, 2025, Leo showed new signs of his traditionalist approach. His choice of a shirt with cufflinks, the use of an amitto, and a white alb under his ceremonial vestments distinguishes him further from Francis’s more minimalist style. Photographers captured his transition from black pants to classic white trousers, a subtle but notable shift in papal fashion.
Along with these sartorial changes, Leo has shown a willingness to engage in Vatican traditions that Francis often avoided, such as allowing the traditional "baciamano," where people kiss the pope’s ring. Many feel that Leo’s approach signals a renewed appreciation for the treasures of tradition.
Whether Leo will move into the Apostolic Palace, which was left vacant during Francis’s tenure, remains uncertain. Francis opted for a simple lifestyle at the Santa Marta residence, a choice that surprised many.
In contrast, some believe that the focus on Leo’s attire and formalities is somewhat superficial. Rev. Castro Prudencio suggests that while Francis valued simplicity, Leo’s return to traditional practices reflects the rich historical heritage of the Church.
As Pope Leo XIV takes his position, the world watches closely to see if his leadership will bring about a lasting change in how the Catholic Church engages with tradition in both fashion and faith.
