Cyprus, a beautiful island in the eastern Mediterranean, is known for a wine called Commandaria, which boasts a history of nearly 3,000 years. This delightful sweet wine was admired by ancient Greek poets like Homer and Euripides, but it has faced challenges in gaining popularity in today’s global market. Fortunately, a new wave of micro-wineries is stepping in to revive old winemaking traditions and give Commandaria a fresh start.
Commandaria has a rich backstory filled with fascinating legends. It is said to have claimed victory in the first known wine competition while under the rule of French King Philippe Augustus in the 13th century. There are tales of English King Richard the Lionheart serving Commandaria at his wedding in Cyprus in 1191, and 14th-century London Mayor Henry Picard reportedly treating leaders from England, France, Scotland, Denmark, and Cyprus with this exquisite wine during a lavish feast.
Originally known as “nama,” the name Commandaria was introduced by the medieval Knights Hospitaller, who established their headquarters in an area famous for its wine. The Orthodox Church in Cyprus later adopted it as communion wine during Byzantine times. The sweet, complex flavors of Commandaria were highly regarded when the Venetians ruled Cyprus in the 15th and 16th centuries.
Currently, bottles of Commandaria range from around 20 euros to as much as 150 euros. The wine’s unique flavors—hints of honey, raisin, walnut, fig, carob, cinnamon, coffee, and caramel—are attributed to the island’s fertile volcanic soil, according to Christakis Nicolaou, a community leader in the village of Zoopigi, which is home to a Commandaria museum.
Despite its rich history, recent years have seen production levels hovering around 200,000 bottles, due in part to a decline in demand. One significant factor has been the reduction in Russian tourists, who traditionally enjoyed this wine, following sanctions imposed after Russia’s invasion of Ukraine.
Efforts were made to penetrate the Chinese market, but growth has been slow as producers struggled to meet demand. Wine expert Demetri Walters pointed out that Commandaria has not been marketed effectively abroad, which has hindered its growth despite its high quality and intriguing history. He noted that the island’s main producer, KEO, has been slow to capitalize on the wine’s potential, particularly for its older vintages.
Despite the challenges, some wineries are finding success. For example, Revecca Winery, located in the mountain village of Ayios Mamas, has seen an increase in both domestic and international sales since opening in 2015. Their Commandaria even won top honors at a national wine competition last year.
Revecca’s curator, Nikolas Christodoulides, is focused on enhancing quality rather than prioritizing quantity. Their production, amounting to 3,000 bottles annually, is proving popular among wine lovers. The winery is proud of its special blends crafted for customers’ preferences, with some even traveling from abroad to stock up.
Commandaria is made from two indigenous grape varieties, dark Mavro and white Xynisteri. After harvesting, the grapes are sun-dried for about a week to enhance their natural sweetness. The wine is then aged for a minimum of two years in reused oak barrels, adhering to strict production laws dictated by the European Union to maintain its protected designation of origin.
Some wineries, such as Karseras in Doros, produce a sweeter, darker form of Commandaria using only Mavro grapes. While manager Philippos Karseras appreciates the rise in local demand, it hasn’t fully compensated for the losses from the Russian market. However, those at Revecca are optimistic about the future, believing that consistency in quality will help them gradually reclaim their customer base.
“We must first ensure our product’s quality and win over domestic consumers before we can make a significant effort to market Commandaria internationally,” said Christodoulides. With dedication and a revival of traditional practices, the future looks bright for Commandaria in Cyprus.
