NEW YORK — What’s the significance of a suit?
Curators preparing for the latest Met Gala exhibit believe it’s about much more than fabric and stitches; it encompasses history, culture, identity, and self-expression.
Titled “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” this year’s spring exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute will kick off, as tradition dictates, with the star-studded Met Gala on May 5. This exhibit is notable as it exclusively honors Black designers and is the first in over 20 years to center around menswear.
As part of the gala, attendees are encouraged to showcase their creativity within the theme, “Tailored For You,” signaling that sleek suits will be a highlight of the evening.
Guest curator Monica L. Miller, who teaches Africana studies at Barnard College, humorously remarked on the versatility of suits, stating, “Everything from Savile Row to a track suit.” She is currently engrossed in labeling over 200 items for the exhibit, a task that combines both excitement and effort.
Miller emphasizes that a suit symbolizes many concepts and that the tailoring process is deeply personal. “It’s not just about physically fitting into a suit,” she explained. “It’s about what you wish to convey that night.”
The inspiration for this exhibit stems from Miller’s 2009 book, “Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity.” Her work prompted Andrew Bolton, the curator behind several prominent Costume Institute exhibitions, to invite her as a guest curator to explore Black style through the lens of dandyism.
“Dandyism was about pushing boundaries,” Miller stated, while a display behind her showcased twelve themes integral to the exhibition: Ownership, presence, distinction, disguise, freedom, champion, respectability, jook, heritage, beauty, cool, and cosmopolitanism.
The exhibition will start by revisiting the 18th century, focusing on historical artifacts before transitioning to contemporary fashion from the 20th century onwards. Each section will feature historic garments and accessories alongside modern styles.
On the traditional first Monday in May, a high-profile crowd from various spheres of entertainment and sports will gather. This year’s gala co-chairs include musician and designer Pharrell Williams, Formula 1 star Lewis Hamilton, actor Colman Domingo, and rapper A$AP Rocky, with NBA superstar LeBron James serving as the honorary chair.
This year also sees an additional host committee comprising athletes like Simone Biles and Jonathan Owens, influential figures from Hollywood, musicians, authors, and artists, each adding to the star-studded affair.
During the pre-dinner cocktail hour, these guests will take time to explore the exhibit, which will feature not just elegant suits but also historical artifacts, such as a horse jockey uniform worn between 1830 and 1840.
Recently, museum staff have been hard at work restoring items for the exhibit. Among the featured pieces is a classic Jeffrey Banks suit from 1987, highlighted for its harmonious design. Adjacent to it is a unique suit crafted by Jacques Agbobly, a designer whose work seeks to promote Black, queer, and immigrant narratives.
Miller intends for the exhibit to highlight both renowned and emerging designers, ensuring representation across various economic backgrounds. Due to a scarcity of garments made by Black Americans prior to the late 19th century, the exhibit will fill early segments with art, photography, and other decorative items.
Among the exhibit highlights, the respectability section features civil rights leader W.E.B. Du Bois’s receipts for suits made in cities like Paris and London. The jook section will include a clip of the Nicholas Brothers performing a legendary tap dance number from 1943’s “Stormy Weather.”
Miller expresses a desire for visitors to see how people engage with fashion, noting that traditionally, fashion exhibits do not effectively showcase clothing in action. “The tuxedo, like the suit in general, transcends social classes,” she pointed out, emphasizing its role in both formal and entertaining contexts.
The exhibit is set to open to the public on May 10 and will run through October 26, promising to be a captivating exploration of Black tailoring and style.
